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FRANCE / Paris: the 1st Steps at Paris SS17 Mens Fashion Week
by Modem – Posted July 01 2016
© Modem

The Paris Mens Fashion Week just finished and added for the first time to its calendar few young brands. Modem is glad to introduce to you Facetasm, Hugo Costa, Sean Suen, M.X by Maxime Simoens, Maison Michel, Les Benjamins and Mohsin.

[size=14][red]Facetasm[/red][/size]

Launched in 2007, Facetasm is designed by Hiromichi Ochiai. The label previously showed on the Tokyo calendar and this year for the first time, the Paris Mens Celendar hosted the Facetasm runway on June 22nd at Tomorrow Showroom.

Born in Tokyo in 1977, graduated from the Bunka Fashion College, Hiromichi worked for 8 years for Guildwork, textiles company which works with domestic brands like COMME des GARCONS, Zucca, and Undercover, while working as an assistant at NGAP (artists that work on everything from Western clothing to furniture and interior). He launched his own brand “FACETASM” spring 2007.
In 2011 he presented his first runway ever collection with the S/S12 season in Tokyo. Two years after, he received the Shiseido Award for best new designer of the year, during the 31st Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix edition. For the Milano Men’s Fashion Week AW16 he presented his collection at the Armani Teatro.

«The Brand name “Facetasm” is a neologism based on the word “facet” which means various sides. There are lots of sides in one object. The side of the object and the back of the object might have a different meaning. We always have a new face, and are pride of our challenge. We aim to create clothes that moves people’s hearts, and those people to be fun.»

More Info : Facetasm

[size=14][red]Hugo Costa[/red][/size]

Hugo Costa is a progressive fashion label from Portugal owned and designed by Hugo Costa since 2010. The label has served a headliner for "Portugal Fashion" the eponymous Porto Fashion Week. All pieces are designed and produced with quality craftsmanship in Portugal and are available at carefully selected retailers worldwide.

The designer decided to showcase for the first time in Paris at La Maison Des Metallo on June 24th during the Paris Mens Fashion Week with a Samurais SS17 collection.
The brand started with classic and street style menswear and expanded into sneackers, leather backpacks and unisex pieces. Inspired by the street culture minimalism, from philosophy to architecture, Hugo Costa creates seasonal collections for the progressive urban men and women. For this SS17 season, the designer drew his inspiration from Asia and Samurais.

Symbolizing feudal era, samurais used to evolve under the reign of the bushido, a moral code: stopping violence with weapons. This strict discipline distinguishes itself with an organic, functional and esthetic dress code. With this SS17 collection, Hugo Costa puts forward a modern point of view on bushido's culture. Attaching significance to shapes, volumes and fabrics used in this Japanese martial art, Hugo Costa democratizes a lifestyle’s physical, spiritual and moral dimension.

More info : Hugo Costa

[size=14][red]Sean Suen[/red][/size]

Sean Suen was founded in 2012 in Beijing. It emphasizes innovation and precision of the garment structure, stresses vitality and fun. With a unique design style, the designer uses the layers of conflict and collision of different fabrics. It has a distinctive style of combining both exaggeration and wearability in his oversized cutes.

In 2015, Sean Suen showed at the London fashion week and this season, the brand showcased for the first time at the Paris Mens Fashion Week its latest SS17 collection named "39N 116E" in the Hotel d'Evreux at the very chic Place Vendôme.

The new season of menswear designed by Sean Suen is greetings from the mysterious Far East and a revisit to the past. The deconstruction and reconstruction of the tailoring of the East and West, the clash of different fabrics and color, contrast and fusion, is a collision of art from both the latitude and longitude. Designer has chosen khaki and white to represent his feelings towards Europe, while black and dark blue demonstrate the ideal and mysterious oriental charm.

The silk oversized coat and gown are integrated with zippers. The ivory white fabric and carbon black silk fabric form conflict. The enlarged cuffs and elongated proportions accentuate the oriental charm. The big lapel jacket is detailed with zippers. The sporty Nouveau Obscure printing with a silky jacket reflects the young and uninhibited, free and modern urban sentiment.

More info : Sean Suen

[size=14][red]M.X by Maxime Simoëns[/red][/size]

Maxime Simoens launched his last ready-to-wear men’s collection : M.X by Maxime Simoens. After seven years heading his own women couture house, the designer finally presented a first menswear collection during the Paris Mens Fashion Week SS17 this June at Espace Saint Martin.

In the middle of a small gymnasium, a sophisticated scenography makes us feel in the privacy of men’s locker room. Models were randomly appearing, changing themselves with neat and graphic shirts, fancy joggings, casual or strict shapes but always finely ribbed with black or white lines, turning the outfits to be more dressed up. This SS17 collection induces the urban man paradox, mixing casual and chic into dark colours (navy, burgundy, black...). The music also suggests that boys just finished a work out session.

His vision of menswear is clearly modern and urban, looking for wearable creativity and originality. This new RTW line is daily, eternal and accessible : «I wanted to meet my designs worn on the streets» -Maxime Simoens

The designer remains faithful to his original concept : pure lines, graphic prints and structured shapes. The M.X looks refers to a secret man : Mister X.
Young and actual, the M.X man balances between urban masculinity and shy attitude. Natural, he cultivates authenticity and elegance. Maxime Simoens draws its inspiration from sportswear and turns away the classical menswear codes.

More info : Maxime Simoens

[size=14][red]Maison Michel[/red][/size]

Since 1936, Maison Michel is a high end headwear label combining know-how, skill and creativity to meet the demand of the most prestigious fashion houses. In 2006 the hats house expresses its knowledges by new shapes and new fabrics, Maison Michel launches its new unexpected line which resume the original house signature. Maison Michel presented for the first time their collection in Paris on June 23rd rue Saint Honore.

The presentation took place in a bright room, few themes stood out with different visual identities: for daytime some felt and velvet hats in crushed raspberries tones, few hologram theme headbands or caps: for youngest, to be worn at day or night time, a glittered fluffy black theme for night accessorizes, reminding little girls' headwear and a romantic theme with flowers packed into transparent plasticised PVC to dress up your head. In short, a complete and creative unisex collection for the next summer.

Priscilla Royer, creative director since the Fall Winter 2015-2016 collection, instills a reappraisal of headwear in a pragmatic and holistic way, from the hat through to the head, turned towards the person and his style. Maison Michel with its new aura sees a cast of strong characters – both male and female –to serve and promote pride in individuality, sporty head accessories, alternative cultural and historical references, wearability, and freedom attitude.

At first, the Parisian designer Priscilla Royer studied at the “experimental fashion design” department of Central Saint Martins School. She already have a rich career, from the Vivienne Westwood’s studio, through the ANDAM accessories' award in 2012, to Priscilla and her sister's own label « Pièce d’Anarchive ». Not long after, it’s been the consecration and she started to direct creatively « Maison Michel ».

More info : Maison Michel

[size=14][red]Les Benjamins[/red][/size]

Founded in 2011 by the Turkish entrepreneur Bunyamin Aydin, Les Benjamins is a sportswear luxury brand based in Istanbul. For the first time the label presented his collection for the Paris Mens Fashion Week in an art gallery with strangely static models.

The designer uses superior fabrics, printing and embroidery techniques each product has elements of traditional tailored cuts and thoughtful details. Aydin maintains a hybrid design philosophy, creating sophisticated urban items that explore both Eastern and Western aesthetics in a unexpected combinations of digital print and artisanal fabrics. Likewise, a keen interest in hip-hop culture has led Aydin towards artistic collaborations with music artists promoting his strong belief in the progressive, cross-disciplinary spirit of fashion today.

Les Benjamins explores a heightened nomadic surrealism theme for the SS17 season, including global stories of tribal symbolism in a new urban vision. The collection offers a respectful nod to the vibrant blue "Alasho" tones of the Tuareg uniforms, blended through with blacks, deep purples, and the sandy desert tones of the Sahara. Ceremonial body painting is observed as bold brushstrokes across fabric, as are touches of African animalia prints: zebra stripes and leopard spots align with colour-blocked paneling for a bold, streamlined impact.

It introduced to us an array of prints and decorative techniques paying homage to traditional arts & crafts, as beadwork, flocking, foil and digital prints, and rich jersey jacquards create a sense of depth across authentic streetwear staples.Underprinting the wardrobe of masculine clothes (the bomber jacket, box tee, sweatshirt, and woven shirt), sarrouel shorts and trousers reflect the contoured drape of traditionnal "Salwar" pants and tone-on-tone outfits evoke a striking sense of urban camouflage.

More info : Les Benjamins

[size=14][red]Mohsin[/red][/size]

Mohsin Ali is a British born designer and founder of MOHSIN, a UK based menswear brand. MOHSIN was presenting for the first time at the Paris Men Fashion Week SS17 at Lakic Showroom on June 26.

Brought up in a working class family Ali grew up in Huddersfield West Yorkshire, a northern town known for producing luxury fabrics, an industry his father spent a little time working in when he arrived in the UK in the early 60’s.

Ali’s career began being assistant buyer for The Strand, a highly influential store in Leeds at the time stocking labels such as Dries Van Noten, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons and Helmut Lang. In 1996 Ali moved to London and in 1999 graduated from the London College of Fashion. After spending time in New York and Milan, he settled back in London and lunched his own label MOHSIN in 2013.

Inspiration comes from his life, clubs during the 90’s, house music, Ethnic background and sport experiences as boarding, running and Muay thai. Inspired by these influences and his love for both traditional and technical fabrics, MOHSIN label was formed. His approach is simple but effective, Ali believes in neat aesthetic and that appliance should be for a reason, design should be questioned and challenged for him to produce and create.

More Info: Mohsin

Annabelle Tesseyre © Modemonline

© Modem