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ITALY / Milan: First Steps Men Fashion Week FW17/18
by Modem – Posted January 26 2017
© Modem

[size=16][red]CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – January 14th – Base Milano[/grey]

Christian Pellizzari showcased the 14th of January at Base Milano, with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana support.



Play with opulence and rigor in a deluxe atmosphere recalling the old Hollywood in the 30s, with reminiscences of names such as William Haines and Dorothy Draper. The inspiration is Hollywood Regency, a trend in vogue during the Golden Age, known as an extravagant, eccentric, elegant and colorful style of interior design, obsessive passion of rich stars with which they loved furnishing their luxurious villas. Onto Christian Pellizzari’s catwalk it is codified with a contemporary language.
Looking to the traditional menswear wardrobe, the designer downplays the precious classic fabrics with military elements and prints that evoke fascinating Hawaiian scenery. In a triumph of sumptuous brocades, suits in Prince of Wales, cargo pants, field jackets and delicate geometric patterns. To end with studded amphibians on the feet.
Pellizzari put on the scene an opulent collection that meets the severity of uniform style, mixing baroque and modernity. The tailored pieces are reinterpreted in an unconventional way through the use of flashy materials. Ready to trace an aesthetic addressed to a clear and defined slice of market.

Born in 1981, finalist at Who’s Next Uomo 2013, Christian Pellizzari studied at Polimoda in Florence before working for four years at Tonello and Maison Vionnet and Jay Ahr in Paris.
In 2010 he decided to launch his eponymous menswear brand that debuted with the autumn/winter 2011-12 and presented his first women’s collection for spring/summer 2014. In the same year he was chosen by Giorgio Armani as a guest designer at Armani Teatro on the occasion of the Milan fashion shows in June. The designer also participated in “The Future Generation” project organized by Colmar Originals in collaboration with Vogue Talents, realizing a special capsule collection unveiled during Pitti Immagine in January 2016. Then he made his debut at Milan Fashion Week in January 2017 with the support of Cnmi- the National Chamber of Italian fashion.


More info: Christian Pellizzari


[size=16][red]PLEIN SPORT[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – January 14th - Fiera Milano City[/grey]

Philipp Plein launches on the activewear and debuts on the catwalk with Plein Sport, not a second line, as the designer said, but a luxury alternative to the sports brands on the market.



The German designer, formerly at the helm of his eponymous brand of around 200 million euros of revenue and with an acquisition of Billionaire couture - the label created by Flavio Briatore - he announced a few months ago, through some photos on Instagram, the launch of the new project dedicated to the sports segment with the first stores in Milan in Corso Venezia, Paris and Amsterdam, to this day.

Inside the pavilions of Fiera Milano City it comes to life the live show à la Plein. On stage a collection that gives way to big prints, trendy accessories. And breath-taking bodies. Ready to show the performances of the garments in the large gym set up in front of the attentive and curious eyes of the guests. To characterize the looks padded waistcoat, sweatshirts, leggings, micro tops and backpacks where combine innovative technology and luxurious fabrics. The total black are illuminated by silver and gold touches.
Plein does not stop for a moment. After strategic investments and being honored last June on the occasion of Monte Carlo fashion week with a special award for his international fashion creative contribution, he decided this time to bet on the sports world. With a series of outfits that do not look after the aesthetic and design, but which inspired by a concept of functionality and modernity.


More info: Plein Sport


[size=16][red]DAVID YURMAN[/red][/size]
[grey]Presentation - January 15th - p.zza Sant'Eufemia 3[/grey]

David Yurman debuted in Milan during the week dedicated to the menswear collections. The high-end jewelry american brand's first presentation held in the San Paolo Converso deconsecrated church, a historic building that houses today CLS Architetti’s firm.



The brand, founded by David Yurman and his wife Sybil in 1980 and known for the Cable iconic bracelet, is under the creative direction of Evan Yurman who reinforced over the past few years the connection with the art world. On the occasion of its debut in the Meneghina city, the brand organized an event in tandem with the English artist Anthony James, who created crystal cases in different geometric shapes for showing the jewelries of the collection.
“[grey]Anthony’s work is both striking and thought-provoking at the same time,”[/grey] said Evan Yurman. “[grey]He plays on social constructs and creates pieces that make you think differently about space, time, and shape. His approach to innovation mirrors ours; we both use sculpture and form to tell stories, and to connect with people. These parallels have drawn me to his work, and our exhibition in Milan, a city center of art, design and culture, is a fitting stage to finally bring our two worlds together.”[/grey]


More info: David Yurman


[size=16][red]CEDRIC CHARLIER[/red][/size]
[grey]Show - January 16th - via Bergognone 26[/grey]

A co-ed show marking Cédric Charlier’s debut menswear collection. The Belgian designer, who announced the unification of appointments last June, he chose the Meneghina City to present his masculine and feminine collections for fall winter 2017-18, with an only one show held on Monday, 16 January in via Bergognone 26 on the occasion of Milan fashion week.



Les Sportifs artwork by the Ukrainian painter Kasimir Malevich is the common thread to the creations that the designer has brought into the spotlight for the first time ever in Milan. On the catwalk a sequence of items that are the result of a perfect dualism à la française balancing opposite but complementary codes, that is the man and woman, the elegant and casual, the classic and sportif. A binomial that unites vivid nuances with geometric compositions and soft tones.
Linear suits worn with t-shirts and sneakers for him, long dresses in velvet or lurex for her. Instead sophisticated small gingham prints and color blocked motifs invade both the masculine and feminine looks, revealing a merger between the two universes.
Simple and refined, Charlier made his debut in the Milan fashion week men’s calendar with a rich collection of contrasts and that gives a chic French allure.

Former creative director of Cacharel, Cédric Charlier launched in 2012 the eponymous brand, produced and distributed by Italian group Aeffe, and boasts, in his cv, prestigious collaborations with names like Céline and Lanvin.

More info: Cédric Charlier


[size=16][red]PALM ANGELS[/red][/size]
[grey]Show - January 16th - via Procaccini 29[/grey]

An underground army makes its entrance within a former garage, marching to the rock tune of Cramberries. They are the young revolutionaries of Palm Angels, Francesco Ragazzi’s brand, which made its debut in the official calendar of the Milan Fashion Week.



Rebellious, impudent, confident boys. Wearing hooded sweatshirts and glasses with dark lenses to cover looks full of rage. For a bad system to fight against and a tenebrous past that comes back to dominate. A constant desire of rebellion looms, urging them to abandon the dream they have always desired. Working on Wall Street. And here they are on stage with flared jeans, tracksuits, overlapping checked flannel shirts, touches of camouflage, big striped polo with pop colors. And the logo that stands out everywhere.
Not only cool outfits to show, but a portrait of tenacious young boys with a strong story to tell. And the designer is able to renew classic elements of the American college style with an underground spirit. Interpreting 90s iconic pieces with a contemporary mood. So, a new energy has imposed on the hot streetwear scenery.

Palm Angels, brand belonging to the New guards group, a reality that counts brands such as Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Off-White, Hood by air and United standards, it was launched in September 2014 by the Moncler artistic director, Francesco Ragazzi. The brand that takes inspiration from the southern California skate culture, presented by appointment for the first time ever in Milan in June 2015, and after a couple of seasons in Paris, it made its debut in the Meneghina city in January with a menswear collection accompanied by a women’s capsule collection. Today the brand sells in international stores of the calibre of Colette, Selfridge’s, Dover Street Market, Barneys New York and Lane Crawford.


More info: Palm Angels


[size=16][red]WOOD WOOD[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – January 16th - Base Milano[/grey]

Back to the 90s for the Danish label founded in 2002 by Karl-Oskar and Brian, which debuted among the new proposals at Milan men’s fashion week with the support of White, Cnmi-Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and the Revolver Copenaghen fair.



Named "The Low End", the collection for the autumn winter 2017-18 thought by Wood Wood has an evident and clear reference. The inspiration is from the golden era east coast hip hop culture interpreted in a contemporary way in line with the Dna of the brand, with references to newyorkese streetwear's world and nautical clothing. The brand retraces the classical iconographic of 90s minimalism, mixing items taken from sportswear with formal elements. Among relaxed silhouettes, flannel shirts, square motifs, classic pinstriped suiting styles and high-waisted pants. Furthermore, Champions teddy jackets, Asics shoes and jackets signed Barbour stand out, highlighting a series of important collaborations started by the nord european brand over the years.

Special guest during the edition of White in January, Wood Wood celebrates for the next winter 90s casual and essential aesthetic. Items decipher the simplicity of that era, recalling a nostalgic imaginary that is conquering the fashion catwalks during last seasons and being able to unite sportswear and formal classicism, winking at a sophisticated young generation.


More info: Wood Wood


[size=16][red]YOSHIO KUBO, MOTO GUO, CONSISTENCE[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – January 17th - Armani Teatro[/grey]

The edition of Milan fashion week dedicated to the fall winter 2017-18 menswear collections concludes its round of fashion shows with a day that saw as protagonist, in addition to the final parade of Giorgio Armani, a collective show organized by Cnmi-Camera Nazionale della Moda for promoting emerging international designers. The event held at the renewed Armani Theatre spaces in via bergognone, where Giorgio Armani opens the doors to new talents for years. This season it was the turn of three designers from Asia, who created an interesting show marking different aesthetic visions.
“[grey]I want to thank the designers for the enthusiasm and energy for this pro project"[/grey], said the Cnmi president Carlo Capasa at the beginning of the manifestation. “[grey]And I wish to thank Giorgio Armani for the vitality important and constant contribution he makes to Milan’s Fashion Week and for the generosity and diligence with which he has been supporting young designers for some years now. His project offers the new generation of designers a major opportunity to gain international visibility and is an invaluable contribution to the future of fashion. The initiative also generates health and fruitful competition between young talents who may thus become part of an ongoing story. Today the aim is not find a winner but to enable anyone to express their ideas”.[/grey]

[size=14][red]Yoshio Kubo[/red][/size]
Japanese designer, graduated from Philadelphia University’s school of Texile & Science in 2000. He worked for four years as assistant for New York haute couture designer Robert Denes and in April 2004, he founded his eponymous label yoshiokubo.
The catwalk is a rodeo of rampant young cowboys with a strong urban street attitude. They wear embroidered jackets like a bandana with fancy jacquard, chaps in leather or in soft silk, over coats with fur details and glossy bombers with giant pictures horses printed. Strong references to the sport are evident. With technical elements that can hold dresses not simply to wear them, to try to see outfits from different points of view. In line with the philosophy of the designer.



More info: Yoshio Kubo

[size=14][red]Moto Guo[/red][/size]
The Malaysian designer Moto Guo brings on the catwalk a childlike mood that traces a witty and bold wardrobe. A procession of timid young boys who seem to come from a cartoon or comic, wearing sweet schoolboy’s clothes. Among nice striped cropped pants, shorts, flowers and small squares, swans in love, pearl necklaces and embroidered collars. A mix between Japanese vintage and European romanticism. The all is permeated by delicate pastel tones that soften the silhouettes and make styling more pleasing to the eye. To highlight the top collaborations with Sofya Samareva for funny hats-sculpture and the extravagant eyewear designer Percy Lau.

Founded in 2015 by Moto Guo, the eponymous label made in Malaysia stands out in the current fashion scene for the bizarre irony that pervades all the creations. An unconventional aesthetic with a strong and distinct individuality that makes the duo renowned, appreciated and chatted. After working together secretly, in 2016 Guo made an official statement introducing and revealing Kinder as the second creative director of the brand.



More info: Moto Guo

[size=14][red]Consistence[/red][/size]
The relaxed and severe tailoring of Consistence finds expression in a sense of incomplete perfection. Sartorial suits featuring exposed stitching, sporty details on coats and blazers, big pockets here and there. A simplicity that nourishes on deconstructed compositions, modern and clear lines. For a casual visual result of excellent craftsmanship and quality of materials. The Chinese KKtP and Casamadre, a brand made in Italy created by young designers Alessia Crea and David Parisi contributed to accessories.

Consistence is a London based contemporary menswear label founded by Fang Fang and Tien Lu. It is the right balance between avant-garde and classical, casual and formal. For a sophisticated and minimalist composure with contemporary accents.



Anna Rita Russo © Modemonline