[size=16][red]EDITHMARCEL[/red][/size]
[grey]Presentation – February 22th – Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia[/grey]

At its first official presentation inside Le Cavallerizze’s room of the Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia, the emergent Italian brand Edithmarcel takes inspiration from Irish artist Francis Bacon’s paintings to create genderless and sartorial clothes.



In the Bacon’s portraits the characters seem to manifest a rebellious impulse face to an unattainable orderliness who are forced. A profound representation that is reflected in the Edithmarcel’s imaginary winter. Among sweatshirts and shirts with logo, coats and cropped pants, fur details and metallic pockets. Playing with different textures, layerings and excessive volumes, for relaxed and comfortable silhouettes, mixing the shades of black, bottle green and pumpkin with striped fantasies, pois and lurex. To finish with skimpy looks representing a multifaceted idea of rigor.
Founded in 2015 by Gianluca Ferracin and Andrea Masato, respectively from the faculties of Fashion Design and Architecture at IUAV of Venice, Edithmarcel starts from an aesthetic research that cancels the boundaries between femininity and masculinity to dress woman and man without distinction.

After the experience at Pitti Uomo 88 in the agender area, the brand debuted at fashion hub market in 2015 on the occasion of the fashion week and participated at Who in on next, the project created by AltaRoma in collaboration with Vogue Italia to support young talents, bringing last January in the magic atmosphere of the eternity city the creations for next fall winter 2017-18 and in September showed the Spring Summer ‘17 during Vogue Talents at Palazzo Morando in Milan.

More info: Edithmarcel

[size=16][red]ANNAKIKI[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – February 22th – Palazzo Vetra[/grey]

A surreal and futuristic atmosphere for the first step of Annakiki on the catwalk, which presented the fall/winter 2017-2018 collection during Milan fashion week. A parade of figures meandering with petrified eyes in the fascinating scenery of Vetra theatre's spaces, wearing dresses with sculpted shoulders and blinding colours.



The designer starts from a documentary about the discovery of aliens in Mexico in 1947 to create a show in which come in succession extravagant silhouettes, with futuristic traits and shiny and metallic touches, in contrast with the shocking pink and fluorescent shades.
An imaginary journey towards spaces and unknown worlds that takes life through maxi furs, silver overalls, clothes in red or black varnished leather, pinafores, three-dimensional embroideries, fur-trimmed sleeves and oversize sweatshirts.
The young designer Anna Yang stages for her debut a collection made of eccentric sartorial creations with voluminous shapes and classic cuts, playing with fabrics and pop colours. An avant garde vision, where enter into dialogue tradition and modernity, for an original and innovative result.

Anna Yang was born in a family of tailors and since childhood she began to come into contact with the fashion world, picking fabrics to make skirts that she liked. In addition to the interest for the fashion she reinforced a strong passion for art and design over the years. In 2012 she founded Annakiki and did an exhibition in 2014-2015 during the fashion week in London and Paris. The contemporary style that characterizes the brand is contaminated by a funny and anti-traditional approach.

More info: Annakiki

[size=16][red]JOSHUA SANDERS[/red][/size]
[grey]Presentation – February 23rd – c.so Venezia 18[/grey]

An atmosphere with a Californian taste animated the event in Milan for the presentation of the new winter shoe collection signed Joshua Sanders.



Among cool music, palm trees, vibrant colours, fluorescent lights. The designer's creations for the next cold season are inspired by the city of angels, in a mixture of different cultures and new interpretations of iconic pieces. Innovative materials, prints and decorations give the capsule a strong spirit, with particular attention to detail and craftsmanship.
The fabrics play a primary role, including pastel tones tulle, refined velvets, sophisticated mink and fox fur or pieces in eco version. A masculine and feminine collection that embraces an eclectic and contemporary style, with an unconventional and cosmopolite aesthetic vision.
The intuitive mind hiding behind Joshua Sanders is called Vittorio Cordella, 32 year-old, CEO and creative director of the brand. A designer who loves discovering new trends in order that the products can be unique and distinguishable. In 2011 the idea of Joshua Sanders is born, a brand able to create a perfect combination of Italian quality and American touch. The first collection showed in 2012 and today is distributed in the most important luxury boutiques around the world.

More info: Joshua Sanders

[size=16][red]ANGEL CHEN[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – February 23rd – Scalone Arengario[/grey]

On the occasion of Milan fashion week Angel Chen debuted at the Sala dell'Arengario, in Duomo square, thanks to the Mercedes Benz International Designer Exchange Program to support emergent talents.



On the catwalk a collection with ethnic inspiration, in a suggestive kaleidoscope of color and tribal patterns, paying homage to the African continent and people in Cameroon, Nigeria and Ethiopia. A succession of clothes revisited in a urban street tone, with a modern and funny touch, in a mix of artisanal elements and tech fabrics. Among metallic effects, over eco-furs, patchwork, denim items, windbreakers, maxi collars, hooded sweatshirts in pastel nuances.
The Chinese designer creates a contemporary wardrobe with a heavy street accent and a strong style. Ready to mark the young fashion generations' scenery.

Born in Shenzhen, in China, in a creatives' family, Angel Chen graduated in Fashion design Womenswear at the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London. After working in Vera Wang and Marchesa's offices, the designer decided to launch her eponymous brand in 2014 in Shanghai, the city where she lives. Angel Chen is a uni-sex brand, which is characterized by an innovative aesthetic and excessive at times.

More info: Angel Chen

[size=16][red]VIONNET[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – February 24th – c.so Magenta 65[/grey]

Vionnet could only have chosen the sumptuous and prestigious Casa degli Atellani for its first runway show at Milan Fashion Week, in clear homage to Italy’s cultural landscape.



The celebrated French house, headed by Goga Ashkenazi, showcased its Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection at the site of Leonardo’s vineyard, gifted to the artist at the end of the 15th century and transformed in the 20th by renowned architect Piero Portaluppi.
The perfect choice then, for a lineup rich in imaginative artistry that draws inspiration from an exotic symbol of elegance and grace. Legend has it that the fantastical birds of paradise of New Guinea came from heavenly realms, where they soared through paradise and never touched the Earth.

The tropical birds’ colourful and flamboyant plumage echoes in iridescent textures and vibrant shades paired with nude tones as well as taupe and orchid white. Flashes of acid green, turquoise, fuchsia, and cardinal red impart vitality and intensity to the lightest plissé tulle and silk charmeuse garments.

New interpretations of the signature Vionnet bias cut and pleats on fluid dresses featuring trompe-l’œil effects, fine turtleneck sweaters, asymmetrical styles and draping in combinations of chiffon, cady and silk crepe de chine. Bias-cut aged-denim pieces of urban attitude contrast with the romantic soul of the collection, accentuated by the sail-like volumes. Outerwear suggestive of precious cocoons is crafted from layers of goat hair and shearling.

The Vionnet woman exudes a superficial fragility, masking an independent and unique core of contemporary yet timeless style.

The birds of paradise appear on intricately flocked pigment prints throughout the collection, from this season’s Mosaic bag to an encyclopaedic illustration reproduced on lamé pyjamas, while a rainbow of tiny feathers adorns block heel booties.
Imagination is translated into creativity and high-end craftsmanship, with a strong sense of femininity, never ordinary and very Vionnet!

More info: Vionnet

[size=16][red]SITUATIONIST[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – February 24th – Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia[/grey]

The synergy between White, the trade-flair dedicated to the contemporary fashion, and Cnmi-the National Chamber of Italian fashion, continues with the aim to promote young international realities.



In the last season a special attention is addressed to the creativity of the emergent talents from Eastern Europe, focusing for this edition on the Georgian designer Irakli Rusadze, who showed with his label Situationist for the first time in the official Milan woman fashion week calendar and was also the special guest of the White, with an exhibition from 25 to 27 February at the Hotel Nhow, in Tortona 35.

The Sala delle Cavallerizze at the Museum of Science and Technology in Via Olona, the new location of the fashion week recently renovated by the architect Luca Cipelletti, is the scenery of the Situationist fashion show. Classic lines that reveal unexpected details characterize the spirit of the entire collection, including iconic items such as several overalls styles in skinny leather, neoprene or fur like wool, long coats with special decorations, shorts, suits with wide shoulders and trousers. The all is refined and rendered feminine with plunging necklines, for a soft touch of audacity and sensuality.

The emerging brand, totally made in Georgia, brings on the catwalk oversized silhouettes that preach an unconventional and innovative aesthetics, for a tribute to the land of origin of the designer and in line with the strong brand identity.
“I grew up surrounded by Georgian woman, who were facing the challenges of a post-soviet Georgia on a daily basis, so the concept of femininity is strictly connected to women's inner strength”, said the designer. “This is the reason why my clothes aren't about the shpe of the body, it's the shape of personality that I would like to show”.

Founded in 2015 by Irakli Rusadze, Situationist inspired by the revolutionary political and artistic movement of the late 50s, the Situationist, and is nourished by the designer's personal vision, where all garments are the result of a given situation and interact in circumstances that transform them and that they, on their turn, can influence. The t-shirt with the print of the Georgian flag created for the Spring Summer 2017 collection has been a big success among the most famous international influencers.

[size=16][red]MIAHATAMI[/red][/size]
[grey]Presentation – February 25th – via Borgonuovo 12[/grey]

Back to the origins. Narguess Hatami looks away to put the oriental accent to her collection presented in Milan during last fashion week, entering officially in the Cnmi-National Chamber of Italian Fashion calendar.



Ethnic references, geometric graphic patterns and a chromatic symphony able to give clothes the charm of the Persian culture, inspired by the traditional native costumes, playing with colours and decorative elements perfectly orchestrated by the designer.
The next winter of the young Iranian creative is so tinged with an exotic atmosphere permeated with jacquard sweaters, T-dress and top trimmed with fringes, coats in wool bouclé and pieces embellished with handmade crochets.
The talented designer, coming from the fascinating Persia's lands, started working for Paola Frani, then alongside Massimo Giorgetti for MSGM. The autumn winter 2015-2016 marked an important change to her professional career because she decided to launch Miahatami brand. A style project which bears her name, combined with the possessive adjective to underline the strong bond with her tradition and her aesthetic credo. The creations have a clear and well-defined identity, result of her know-how developed over years of experience, in a mix of multiculturality and craftsmanships.

More info: Miahatami

[size=16][red]COMEFORBREAKFAST[/red][/size]
[grey]Presentation – February 25th – Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia[/grey]

Unsuitable. A feeling of inadequacy is the inspirational source of the Comeforbreakfast collection for next autumn winter, showed in the new location of the Science and Technology Museum.



The two designers at the head of the Italian label rely on the Benedict Bring's photographic work, stylist Victoria Cerciello: New Yorker women's portraits, of different ages, races and body types with the aim to show different femininity aspects in front of the interior unease to feel inadequate. An intimate reflection that fully translates into garments featuring the collection. High-quality materials and precious gold and ivory jacquard details live together on modern, relaxed and minimalist silhouettes. Among soft jackets, wide-leg trousers and vast coats.
Comeforbreakfast feeds of the Antonio Romano and Francesco Alagna's creativity, the first native of Puglia with studies at Polimoda in Florence, the second, Veneto, with master at the Institute of art and design Marangoni in Milan. Both passionated about fashion and after numerous experiences abroad, the designers decide to found their brand in 2009 with a collection presented at the White Trade in September of the same year. Finalist at Who is on Next 2011 and protagonists at AltaRoma in 2013, the brand harmoniously combines avant-garde style and Italian craftsmanship.

More info: Comeforbreakfast

[size=16][red]XU ZHI[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – February 25th – Armani Teatro[/grey]

The Xu Zhi fall winter 2017-18 gets dressed of a relaxed femininity that finds expression in the deconstruction and reconstruction of clothes according to the designer's stylistic vision, the Giorgio Armani's guest in collaboration with Cnmi-Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, who showed on the occasion of Milan fashion week at Armani Theater's spaces.



The designer brings on stage a collection inspired by the art piece 'The Visitors' by the Icelandinc artist Ragnar Kjartansson, a video installation that examines the contrast between the fragility and strength. Starting from a reflexion about the concept of isolation and physical separation compered to the idea of union and individual connection, Xu Zhi creates a researched collection including braiding and embroideries, frayed skirts and micro tops, cropped or high waisted trousers. Among denim also proposed in dark version, napa leather and light chiffon.
Sophisticated handcraft and high-quality material come together to create a wardrobe with a strong conceptual mark and a simply and innovative style.

Xu Zhi is a luxury London based label, founded by Xuzhi Chen, graduated at Central Saint Martins boasting not only work experiences in the Craig Green and J.W. Anderson's offices but he has been selected for H&M Design awards 2015 and among the candidates for Lvmh prize 2016 and International Woolmark prize 2016/17.

More info: Xu Zhi

[size=16][red]CALCATERRA[/red][/size]
[grey]Show – February 26th – Scalone Arengario[/grey]

"New sculpture" is the title of the Daniele Calcaterra collection which debuted in the Milano Moda Donna official calendar, showing for the first time ever in the Sala delle Cariatidi of Palazzo Reale with the support of the Cnmi-Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.



The designer made in Italy presents a collection with an austere mood, that is an homage to a rigorous, clean and geometric femininity, taking intellectual references from Richard Serra's work. This becomes evident in a basic colour palette dominated by dark blue and burgundy, interspersed with white and beige tones, and declined on oversized silhouettes, alternating curves and straight lines. Among overlapping, heavy fabrics, voluptuous materials, embroideries in angora and mohair, playing with proportions between shape and material research.
Spotlights on maxi coats, masculine jackets, delicate ruches, fur sleeveless gilet, high-waisted pants.
Daniele Calcaterra, who boasts prestigious collaborations with important Italian and international brands, is the interpreter of a contemporary woman, following a precise and personal aesthetic code that cancels the boundaries between elegance and practicality, realising excellent quality clothes. The collection for the next winter season conquers thanks to the refinement and research of exclusive volumes.

More info: Calcaterra

Anna Rita Russo © Modemonline
Stefano Guerrini for Vionnet article © Modemonline