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ITALY / Milan: Next Spring's man
by Modem – Posted June 30 2011
© Modem

One of the key words from the recent menswear shows would seem to be 'heritage'. The shows and presentations which were well received were those from labels that stayed faithful to their background, reinterpreting it and presenting it to a new audience.

When you think of Versace, you think of the 'Versace legacy', which returned in all its glory. While Lady Gaga paid tribute to Versace channelling Medusa in platforms, Donatella Versace introduced designs to the runway which lend themselves to three fundamental principles: sartorial - something we came across a lot this season - colour and baroque. And never before have Versace prints been so contemporary and inviting.

The net was the leitmotiv for the Dolce & Gabbana collection, a clear reference to the label's Mediterranean roots, customs and traditions, and a constant source of inspiration. The runway also saw sartorial - there's that word again - garments in natural colours, confirming themselves as must-haves for the brand.

From Daniele Alessandrini, a high-pitched palette was selected for a show of audacious chromatic combinations and experimentation in the fit and proportions, and from Frankie Morello, who for their metropolitan ‘messenger biker’ chose superimposition and contrast, presented a mix & match of urban wear and more classically elegant designs.


From Costume National Ennio Capasa reinvented his love for rock, designing a wardrobe which harps back to the energy of the fifties, in this case sartorial, but relaxed, like in the de-structured tuxedo, with hints of sportswear and little eccentricities, for example the rockabilly shoes, available in glitter.

The Emporio Armani fabrics were extra light, allowing for layering, for example the trench, a garment seen in all the collections, worn on top of a jacket, fluid and subtle, to be worn with patterned, ankle-length trousers.

At Bikkembergs, towel had the leading role, enhancing the bodies of these God-like men that in this Sport Couture show, with designs adapted for water. We discover a physical and rather solid clothing-based dimension, with eccentricity, in the ‘grass-green’ jacket, and extreme sophistication, in the white tuxedo.

Etro finds inspiration in Godard’s France, in a ‘joie de vivre’ which embraces a comfortable wardrobe, where polo shirts have loose fits, the jacket is constructed but never constrictive, and where, next to Paisley, prints are small and intriguing, like those on a tennis ball or a dolphin.

Alessandro Sartori confirms his position, saying goodbye to the Z Zegna line with a collection that he conceived through a colour palette ranging from white to more energetic and vivacious colours, for the new silhouette and volumes, where wide trousers, short and skinny jackets, pea-coats and many raincoats in a sophisticated ‘A’ shape reigned supreme.

Classic textiles of menswear clothing, from stripes to dogstooth, made an appearance, often revisited or designed in an irreverent manner, worn for example with tattoo print shirts or with a jumper that has Bob Marley on the front and the slogan “in time to a reggae beat”, like at John Richmond, or deconstructed, with pixelated effects, like in Neil Barrett’s beautiful show.

From Gucci, check was the protagonist in a Brit style wardrobe which, beside the sober elegance of the two buttoned jackets, reworks the burning red parka in an avant-garde style.

The Prince of Wales was referenced at Scervino, where tailored suits and double breasted jackets, better than denim, follow the form of the body naturally.

That is, a body which needs to be beautiful and toned, because even the London Olympics taking place next year are trending for SS12. At Nicole Fahri, who returned to show at Milan Menswear, inspiring ‘Moments of glory’ for a line proud of technological innovation, where seams are sealed by heat and textiles treated with new techniques and finishes. At Vivienne Westwood too, where a sporty gentlewoman was attributed to a collection rich in references to the Olympics, even classical iconography, with as much as a laurel wreath serving as headwear.

There are also those who have gone on personal journeys, where writing about trends would be futile. Miuccia Prada sent down the runway a man who referenced the world of golf and Texas, but the character created seems almost like a Paris street urchin, who wears shirts with quite retro prints or with a western feel to them, green scarves covered with studs, small neckerchiefs, satchels, pastel colours. Prada too remained faithful to their own ‘heritage’, which the brand dedicated to a most powerful voice, apparently out of unison, but still capable of capturing the contemporary zeitgeist.

Stefano Guerrini © modemonline.com

© Modem