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Portugal Fashion Week S/S 2013 Report
by Modem – Posted October 26 2012
© Modem

Divided between the MUDE, in Lisbon, and the Alfândega do Porto Building, the 31 Portugal Fashion presented 36 catwalk shows, among the others: Alves/Gonçalves, Anabela Baldaque, Dielmar, Fátima Lopes, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Júlio Torcato, Luís Buchinho, Luís Onofre, Katty Xiomara, Miguel Vieira and Storytailors

In this edition, events took place in a four days chronological sequence. About 22 thousand people attended the fashion shows, a specialised audience, selected by invitation, both Portuguese and foreign.

All within two buildings: the Museum of Design and Fashion (MUDE) with the Francisco Capelo Collection, in Lisbon, and the Alfândega do Porto Building with Alves/Gonçalves, Anabela Baldaque, Dielmar, Fátima Lopes, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Júlio Torcato, Luís Buchinho, Luís Onofre, Katty Xiomara, Miguel Vieira and Storytailors, among other references of Portuguese fashion.

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On Wednesday 17th, the runway opened with the double act Storytailors, featuring the “AnarChic” collection. “Shapes arise from the pentagram, a star, a magical geometric figure with unique properties, whose proportions are related to one another through the golden ratio, characterised by the mythical ‘golden number’”, explained the double act. The “geometric, scientific shapes, shrouded in mysticism” stood out, as is characteristic of the Storytailors.

- Anabela Baldaque showcased a summer collection with the ironic (or provocative) title “Life again, if you please!”. Light, fresh, flowery and colourful garments – namely dresses that “conjure up powerful butterflies” – characterised this new collection.

- On the same night, Luís Buchinho revealed the “RESORT” collection, which was inspired by interior design and is said to “recreate architectural lines in an ultra-feminine, elegant and sophisticated environment”. “The materials range from the structured (cotton, stretch, silk/polyester taffetas) to the fluid (silk, viscose chiffon, silk satins)”, with ”prints with geometric motifs alluding to glasses and mirrors”.

- The evening ended with the catwalk shows of two historical figures of Portuguese fashion: Katty Xiomara and Miguel Vieira. The former presented “Double Vision”, a collection alluding to a “parallel world or a double vision”. On the basis of this premise, “the materials include some volume, but, on the other hand, ooze weightlessness. Miguel Vieira showcased the “Perfume” collection, inspired by “exotic cultures and idyllic landscapes”. “For men, tailoring-based garments; for women, a blend of volumes from structured garments to more casual and loose garments”.

- The new collection of Alves/Gonçalves was characterised by “straight, simplified silhouettes, but complex in the details. Cuts and openings, portraying a body of erotic intensity but intimate and emotional at the same time”.

- The Portuguese designer living in Paris, where he is creative director of Lacoste, explored, in his “Masters Of Ceremony SS 2013” collection, “the creativity of the hip-hop and graffiti movements”. “Of men’s size, the silhouettes ensure a tension between the masculine and the feminine, the robust and the light, the loose and the tight. The leather glued with jersey gives the cuts a certain plumpness; the baggy trousers with BMX inspiration reveal the ankle and the foot, almost naked, adorned with thin sandals. The honeycomb texture sophisticates the sport style in classic shades of white, marine blue and kaki”, revealed Felipe Oliveira Baptista.

- These become abstract, mysterious and dangerously seductive, gradually evolving into a pure explosion of colour and joy”, as can be read in the descriptive text of the collection.
Mention should also me made of the catwalk shows of Diogo Miranda and TMcollection by Teresa Martins.

- Renowned fashion designer, New Yorker Michael Bastian - designer of his own brand of luxury menswear and responsible for the male and female lines of Gant by Michael Bastian – presented on the end of the 4th day of the event. It was the first time that Michael Bastian holds a fashion show in Europe, best menswear designer of the year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

- On Saturday, the programme of the 31st Portugal Fashion also included the luxury feminine proposals of Carlos Gil, the lighter and irreverent garments for coquettish women of Meam by Ricardo Preto, the bespoke tailoring of Vicri, the sportswear of Lion of Porches and the classic look for men of Dielmar. Once again, Luís Onofre proposed “a luxury trend vs usual plastic. Shoes with a neutral base make the difference in the heel area, which may have several colours 'on demand'”.

- The 31st Portugal Fashion ended, as usual, with the catwalk show of Fátima Lopes. For the next hot season, the designer proposed a collection that draws inspiration from her “happy, free and fantasy-filled childhood spent on the island of Madeira”. Entitled “Luxuriant Paradise”, the “collection is structural, architectural and a little futuristic, with tight shapes, volumes, well-crafted necklines and graphic flower outlines, reminding one of the kaleidoscopes of our childhood. The idea of the kaleidoscope is reinforced by the dazzling colours used.

It is important to remember that the 31st Portugal Fashion kicked off on Tuesday, October 16th, at the Museum of Design and Fashion (MUDE) with the Francisco Capelo Collection, in Lisbon, and with the summer proposals of the young designers Susana Bettencourt and Hugo Costa, Andreia Lexim and Diana Matias, Estelita Mendonça and Daniela Barros. These promising designers are a common presence at the catwalk shows of the Espaço Bloom, a project of Portugal Fashion that allows young artists to showcase their fashion proposals in a more informal, irreverent and multi-artistic runway.

Portugal Fashion is a project under the auspices of the National Young Entrepreneurs’ Association (ANJE), developed in partnership with the Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal (ATP) and currently financed by QREN, within the scope of the Operational Competitiveness Factors Programme (Compete).

Portugal Fashion Week

© Modem