MODEM presents the highlights of the Fall/Winter 2015-16 season, including established menswear designers and up-and-coming ones.

ICOSAE - a twist on classic menswear staples
Particularly worth-seeing this season was the newcomer Paris-based brand ICOSAE, founded by the Glemarec brothers, Florentin and Valentin, and Anthony Hor, who are Ateliers du Caroussel du Louvre and Atelier Chardon Savard alumni. ICOSAE was founded in 2013, but only managed to breakthrough in January 2015, debuting on the official calendar of Paris Menswear. The designers aim to redesign classic menswear staples through graphic lines, while focusing on tailoring and geometrical patterns.

Andrea Crews - racing and raving for menswear
The French fashion, art and activism collective Andrea Crews, on its side, proposed a Race and Rave themed fashion show sponsored by Opel, for which they recently customized the Adam Rocks car series. The show was held in a parking lot, in order to emphasize the underground feeling provided by the collection, that featured a range of 90s inspired active-wear with a white-trash attitude, and a good dose of street cred’.

Gosha Rubchinskiy - say hello to communism
With a similar underground ethos, the Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy presented his second menswear collection at Paris Menswear, for which he received the support of Comme des Garçons and his ever-growing community of fans. In fact, the designer was inspired by the sports aesthetics of Russian and Chinese communism. Streetwear and sportswear elements were therefore mixed with retro detailing, and infused with further historical inspirations, such as “Paninaro” elements - Italian youth movement from the 80s - and a touch of American preppiness.

White Mountaineering - from Japan with love
Traveling from Japan to France, White Mountaineering teamed up with the renowned outerwear brand Barbour, in order to celebrate its debut at Paris Menswear. The Japanese brand is reputed for its innovative design, infused with utilitarian aesthetics and modern technology. In its first ever collaborative collection, which will be available in selected stores worldwide, White Mountaineering focused on the mix-and-match of fabrics, such as corduroys, leathers and tweeds, that were adorned with nature-inspired patterns.

Kostas Murkudis - a great comeback
Finally, the iconic Berlin-based designer Kostas Murkudis made an unexpected comeback presenting his unisex line titled INTER_GENDER. Murkudis, who has been showcasing men's and women's collections in Paris from 1996 until 2001, has been missing on the Parisian runways for a while. This season, the designer was inspired by the 70s atmosphere of the iconic Chelsea Hotel in New York. Sexual freedom and controversial love stories were the starting points for well executed garments, that had a fetish appeal, while remaining extremely minimalist.

Cecilia Musmeci for modemonline.com.

Picture courtesy of Nowfashion / Andrea Crews Fall/Winter 2015-16 show.