Vionnet could only have chosen the sumptuous and prestigious Casa degli Atellani for its first runway show at Milan Fashion Week, in clear homage to Italy’s cultural landscape. The celebrated French house, headed by Goga Ashkenazi, showcased its Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection at the site of Leonardo’s vineyard, gifted to the artist at the end of the 15th century and transformed in the 20th by renowned architect Piero Portaluppi.
The perfect choice then, for a lineup rich in imaginative artistry that draws inspiration from an exotic symbol of elegance and grace. Legend has it that the fantastical birds of paradise of New Guinea came from heavenly realms, where they soared through paradise and never touched the Earth.
The tropical birds’ colourful and flamboyant plumage echoes in iridescent textures and vibrant shades paired with nude tones as well as taupe and orchid white. Flashes of acid green, turquoise, fuchsia, and cardinal red impart vitality and intensity to the lightest plissé tulle and silk charmeuse garments.
New interpretations of the signature Vionnet bias cut and pleats on fluid dresses featuring trompe-l’œil effects, fine turtleneck sweaters, asymmetrical styles and draping in combinations of chiffon, cady and silk crepe de chine. Bias-cut aged-denim pieces of urban attitude contrast with the romantic soul of the collection, accentuated by the sail-like volumes. Outerwear suggestive of precious cocoons is crafted from layers of goat hair and shearling.
The Vionnet woman exudes a superficial fragility, masking an independent and unique core of contemporary yet timeless style.
The birds of paradise appear on intricately flocked pigment prints throughout the collection, from this season’s Mosaic bag to an encyclopaedic illustration reproduced on lamé pyjamas, while a rainbow of tiny feathers adorns block heel booties.
Imagination is translated into creativity and high-end craftsmanship, with a strong sense of femininity, never ordinary and very Vionnet!