After some seasons of absence from the stage, Paris celebrates Thierry Mugler’s come back. A monograph and new director of the brand, now property of the group Clarins, give a new breath to a visionnaire and maximalist aesthetics that marked an era.
Incisive shapes, futuristic cuts, dangerous curves are the distinguishing marks of « glamazon ». Imagined by Thierry Mugler in the '80 and '90, he portraited the powerful woman, determined and theatrical. She looked like a woman from a US soap opera, "Dynasty"style, or coming from outer space. And it's not a coincidence if the new monograph title, edited by Danièle Bott and published by Ramsay, is « Galaxie Glamour ».
Considered as the fashion « Cecil B. de Mille », maybe for the direction of the George Michael « Too Funky » video, or for his magnificent show , imagined like a musical and set at Paris Cirque d'hiver in March 1995 for his 20 years carreer anniversary. The show, always reminded with a certain nostalgia, is still a great source of inspiration for the new generation of designers, like Christophe Decarnin (who led Balmain's rebirth), Nicolas Ghesquière (creative manager for Balenciaga), Dolce and Gabbana and Riccardo Tisci (creative soul of Givenchy). Even in some of the tight-fitting anatomic corsets in Alexander McQueen's alien creatures, inspired by the « hyperfetish » ones that Mister Pearl created for Mugler. Famous for his three « F » : Fashion, Fetish and Fantasy as suggested by the title of the 98’ cult book, where Mugler is portraited as a centaur.
Now, the fashion house is led by Rosemary Rodriguez, who already worked alongside Gianfranco Ferré for Dior and PacoRabanne collections. The stylist, Spanish born but definitely Parisian is a strong supporter of architecture applied in fashion. Her creations for Mugler follow the tracks of her master, with a deep study of volumes and structures and a particular care of graphic meaning of the femininity as a natural mouvement. From the former designer she learned the taste for metamorphosis.
Mugler’s collections give to women the opportunity to live their own multiform beauty with genius and irony : « every woman hide a Diva and a woman has to be an enchantress and self-confident ». A sexy and self-confident woman that today looks like Scarlett Johansson, Paz Vega, and even more Lady Gaga. The new Mugler icon showed off five different looks made by the Parisian designer in her last video «Paparazzi». "Make people dream is just a good way to try to make the world a better place", Mugler said. And maybe he did it his way.
Website of Thierry Mugler
By Enrico Maria Albamonte ©modemonline



