FRANCE / First Steps in Paris Women's Fashion Week F/W 18/19
May 07 2018
Honayda Presentation – February 27th
Saudi fashion designer HONAYDA SERAFI questions the boundaries of society; concerning women’s rights and misconceptions about her country through her work. She maintains strong links with her heritage and culture while living in the present which she portrays through her elegant designs. Born into a family of art and craftsmanship in Saudi Arabia – she studied Islamic art at a university before moving to Paris to study fashion. She has been working on creating her label ever since. Honayda, adds meaning and symbolism into every piece of her designs with evident emphasize on women telling their stories through her designs. The collection is inspired by the hoopoe bird’s story, shown at Paris Women's Fashion Week the Fall Winter 18-19 collection conveys the message of freedom, wisdom and empowerment, a force for women today who take their destiny into their own hands. Inspiration from the bird is evident in the various designs’ embroidery, flared hemlines and flowing shapes of the garments resembling the bird’s wings. One of her dresses has been chosen to be featured in the organizations latest Nations of the world campaign. In the designer’s home country - Saudi Arabia - women have only recently been given the right to drive. In celebration of this change she has included elements in her collection such as print slogans which are inspired by road signs, seat belt strap details, leather details of a car, and zips that suggest power and liberty for Saudi women. All the features shown in her designs are created to empower the individuals who wear them and this message resonates among women across the world. HONAYDA has had the honor of partnering with United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO). As well as being a guest speaker for audiences where she talks about the ideas behind her collections as well as her passion for woman empowerment.
Jarel Zhang Presentation – February 28th
JAREL ZHANG was born in China and studied at the University of the Arts in London where he there after went on to further his studies and graduate from Northumbria University. He founded the brand in 2015; the brand concept represents style and simple design. The Chinese designer was invited to show his Spring Summer 18 collection during New York Fashion Week. He also joined the London Fashion Week showroom. JAREL ZHANG targets the modern urban women with an independent personality. This season for his first presentation in Paris, the collection titled “Wherever you are”, was presented in an unfamiliar and unique setting. Jarel, wants people to be daring in wanting to “overcome and explore” no matter what one is facing. In terms of the garments, he has designed the printed down feather puffer coats and structured long shiny coats made with a mirror-effect leather in hues of bold red, silver and black. The footwear he produced include hiking boots, black sneakers and stiletto boots.
Le Studio Pierre Presentation – March 5th
Le Studio Pierre is a ready-to-wear men and womenswear luxury house based in Paris, founded in 2017. Le Studio Pierre offers dream-like, chic and comfortable clothing. The director’s creativity is inspired by art and retro kitsch objects, Le Studio Pierre in visions a contemporary French fashion line. The house promotes freedom and explores the narrow line between men and womenswear. Tina Pierre, Co-Founder and Creative Director of Womenswear, has been involved in art, photography, and journalism since her childhood growing up between Paris and Normandy. From those two different places is where she draws her aesthetic from. Tina searches for the various ways’ femininity can be expressed through her designs. Thomas Bellego, works alongside Tina Pierre as the Co-Founder and Creative Director of Menswear. The designer spent his childhood in Brittany, France where he imagined many creative stories and played them out with his twin sister. Their unique relationship and his interest in futuristic movies, pop culture and comic book visuals feed his imagination. Through being fascinated by his surroundings and attached to his generation, he finds his ideas for the menswear items. The brand celebrates love comparable to the founders’ relationship with one another. The Fall-Winter 2018 collection of Le Studio Pierre titled “Jurrasic Pierre”, plays on childhood themes which took place during the 70s. The collection is playful as it draws inspiration from youthful concepts. The brand creates androgynous clothing with interchangeable pieces. A few of the pieces include: a yellow hand knitted jacquard jersey with an image of a T Rex dinosaur on it, a peach down jacket and polished leather retro jumpsuit with bell-bottoms, jumpsuits in various pastel colours, faux trousers in beige and fluffy bi-colour trousers and a red leather coat paired with fitted pants. Accessories include: hand knitted mittens in red, white and beige, silk scarves, as well as shiny sheer gloves and tights.
Mame Presentation – March 2nd
Maiko Kurogouchi - the designer of Mame - won the 2017 Fashion Prize of Tokyo(FPT) and she recently showed her first presentation at the Fall Winter 18-19 Paris Fashion Week. Furthermore, she received full support from the FPT as well as funding to show her future Japanese collections on an international level. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, Maiko Kurogouchi started to work for the Miyake Design Studio where she gained experience in planning and designing Issey Miyake’s Paris collection while launching her label Mame Kurogouchi in 2010. Further, Mame have 60 local different ways of trading the brands’ products in Japan and a further 10 overseas. In recent years, the brands sales have increased in China, as well as increasing sales in the United States and in France.
“I’d like to do shows and presentations while keeping in mind that the fashion show is not my final goal, but to bring the clothes firmly to consumers.” - Maiko Kurogouchi said. Born in Nagano, Japan, the designer found inspiration from her surroundings for her fall collection. Kurogouchi’s was inspired by Charlotte Perriand, the first female fashion designer that explored Japan. Her work made for the fall collection displays traditional Japanese coats, kimono fabrics and embroideries with a broad range of modern styles. It featured colours that ranged from brown to indigo greens. The bags in the collection were made out of transparent PVC materials. Statement coats and jackets inspired by traditional Japanese garments with tassels and accents of fur were a part of the designs and the current slim trouser trend is evident in her modern collection.
Marine Serre Show – February 27th
Marine Serre is a young designer based in Paris. She graduated with the top honours results at La Cambre Mode(s), and became involved in the fashion industry through a series of internships and positions at Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela, Dior and Balenciaga. Amongst her achievements her 2016 Radical Call for Love collection was selected for the Hyères Festival, the ANDAM Prize, and the LVMH Prize. Marine Serre practices sustainability in her latest Fall Winter 2018 collection titled “Manic Soul Machine” shown at Paris Fashion Week on the 27th of February. Her studio annex showroom, hosted buyers for four days in March. The designer’s dresses have been made from upcycled and used garments. Future-orientated fashion hybrid designs are created with repetitive reference to the crescent-moon symbol evident on clothing items as seen in her previous collection. Functional everyday wear is reworked and well paired with sportswear original items. Other winter-appropriate everyday items like a leather jacket, leggings and t-shirt sleeves with the crescent-moon print, various tailored jackets, a long-sleeve sportswear top with the word “FUTUREWEAR” printed on the chest (as her clothing is called in her studio), a lilac tracksuit along side original reworked dresses made from secondhand scarfs are also available in the range. The Fall Winter 2018 collection is now available for purchase at Dover Street Market, Nordstrom, SSENSE, Joyce, Opening Ceremony, the Broken Arm, H Lorenzo and Galeries Lafayette among her stockists.
Moohong Presentation – February 28th
Moohong Kim’s Fall 2018 presentation is titled “Heterogeneity as Homogeneity”. The designers clothing range was introduced by reflecting on the violence of the times by facing the politics of hate and division. The collection highlights the importance of unity by acknowledging different cultures, religions and political beliefs, delivering this message by merging contrasting aesthetic elements. Designer Moohong Kim presented his brand’s presentation from Seoul in Paris. The idea of deconstructed corporate wear including structured tailored garments are distinct in the overall ready-to-wear fall collection. Amongst, a monochromatic colour scheme includes a metallic silver jacket with an angled zip and transformed collar. Similarly, a reconstructed long silver skirt and another look of the collection is a shiny pair of loose-fitting pants with emphasis on a pastel green jacket layered over other formal wear shirts.
Moohong Kim is a Seoul-born designer who launched his fashion label, MOOHONG in 2014 after he obtained a PhD in Politics in the UK. His method of understanding fashion challenges the conventional norms. He rejects structuralism and the universal laws of nature by comparing historical structures. Modification becoming the basic foundation for his creations. Moohong is growing his brand identity by manipulating tailoring techniques, experimenting with silhouettes and clean-cut forms.
Mukzin Show – March 1st
Mukzin is a fashion brand established in 2014 by young designers Kate Han and George Feng. The designer duo come from a similar background and interest in Western trends and fashion. They are following the chinoiserie, oriental and Western wardrobe buying trends from their perspective. They deconstruct the Chinese traditional culture, going against traditions by proposing original modern costume design, and bring a neo-orientalist aesthetic language in a new dimension. Mukzin interprets traditional Asian clothing in their own way. Their crossover way of thinking has pushed the brand to join in experiments that blend Eastern and Western tastes in various industries and fields. Their latest collection draws on a variety of Chinese-inspired elements such as; different textures, beading and fur. An avant-garde interpretation of colourful prints is evident in the collection’s pieces, this makes their carefully created garments stand out from mass-produced inspired clothing. Visual symbols and traditional embroidery is crafted into the designs. The models are styled to represent powerful Wonder Women with traditional Chinese weapons and accessories to use for protection purposes. Hong Kong comic style is seen on the show invitation, with the title of this theme being “Jade in The Shadow”.
Kei Ninomiya studied fashion at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts before working as a pattern-maker under Rei Kawakubo for her brand Comme des Garçons. His brand pushes the boundaries of construction and applies innovative fabrication techniques. Handcraftsmanship is integral to the brand as the designer creates never before seen clothing. It is in the details that his talent resonates the most. For example, it might look like simple construction, but there is no stitching anywhere.
"I love black, that’s all. I don’t really care about colours." Kei Ninomiya. The designer explains that to make a silhouette you never need colours. He draws focus towards the differences in fabric. His fall collection features opposing textures, volumes, and scale. Florals were everywhere from coiled fabric to details like the headpieces for example. Alongside knitted sweaters which create volume around the body there were inventive biker jackets, and subversive quilted leather items from which dresses and jackets emerged.
Reveal Project Presentation – February 27th
REVEAL PROJECT was founded by TATRAS designer Masanaka Sakao in 2017. He wanted to build upon his experience as a designer to pass on Japan’s history and tradition. The creative skills and network developed through TATRAS JAPAN, hope to position Japan’s unique techniques and culture as a standard in the fashion industry globally.
REVEAL PROJECT - is a brand concept that maximizes the value of Japanese culture from a creative perspective. The brand showcased the collection launch presentation during FW 2018 Paris Fashion Week in March as a unisex collection. Seven silk jackets with hand drawn Kyo-Yuzen (a tradition dyeing method) designed pieces were shown for the first collection. The bomber jackets are all made with quality Japanese silk and each garment showcases hand drawn Kyo-Yuzen design. Creating a Kyo-Yuzen design involves more than fourteen manufacturing processes including: masking, brush dyeing and illustrations. Each step is performed separately by skilled and specialized craftsmen, who are based in the city of Kyoto. This line came about through the support of Kimura Senshow, a hand drawn Kyo-Yuzen kimono producer, who is based in Kyoto as well. The main driving force behind REVEAL PROJECT is the spirit and passion of the Japanese craftsmen.
Situationist Presentation – March 3rd
Irakli Rusadze is a self-taught emerging Georgian fashion designer. At the age of 14, he started working for various designers and tailors as an assistant to study how fabric was sewn and transformed. As a result, Rusadze represents two brands: SITUATIONIST and AZNAURI. He is known for his rough and unusual forms and reflects his childhood experiences into his minimalistic work. SITUATIONIST originates from the group of political and artistic social rebels of the mid 20th century – Situationists. Refined forms, strong lines, skilled tailoring and primary colours trademark the brand.
Irakli Rusadze, creative director of SITUATIONIST says; “I don’t believe that one can call a creation to a work that is only a personal expression, with this presentation we want to construct different situations and suggest directly lived experience to our audience”. The Winter 2018-2019 collection is characterized by innovative patterns, complex forms, and reflective geometric constructions. The presentation of the new collection was exhibited in Palais de Tokyo modern art museum. A utilitarian inspired collection with details such as a signature structured leather coat, slim fit trousers and suits made from natural materials such as cotton and leather are a few of the items which form part of the collection. Two young Georgian artists set the background for the new collection and the designer takes inspiration from traditional Georgian cultural heritage but making clothes that appeal to everyone.