MIAORAN
Mysterious creatures from the deep sea, swimming on white canvas, printed or embroidered. It’s the hot imaginary for Miaoran Spring Summer 2017, the fashion designer who showcased his work thanks to the support of Italian house Giorgio Armani during Men’s Fashion Week in Milan, at Armani Theater in the city center.
The outerwear plays a primary role. Long coats in thick canvas make a statement and define the clean and relaxed silhouette, giving the body complete freedom of movement. Crisp shirts long well below the waist create continue layers, among patchwork, colorful embroideries and original design.
Focus on textures. Oversized proportions and bold volumes alternate to scary fishes weaved in macramé patterns and a ton sur ton total-look. A modern and refined collection with sportswear and romantic references, which emphasizes an accurate research on materials and a delicate sartorial style.
Born in Shanxi in 1987, Miaoran is a young and up-coming Chinese talent who studied in Italy, with a degree in fashion design at the Politecnico di Milano and a master course at NABA where he teaches. After some work experience in the worlds of art and theater and the Missoni style department, he launched in 2015 his eponymous label. Miaoran’s collections feature eclectic look, multidisciplinary aspects and minimal lines, focusing on oversize volumes and the combination of contrasting materials, blurring the boundaries between genders.
“I thank Giorgio Armani for the support and the opportunity he gave me to show at the Armani/Teatro. It’s a great honor for a young designer who comes from far and chose Milan as the place to live”, said Miaoran.
MOTO GUO
The young talented Malaysian designer Moto Guo made his debut on the catwalk at Milan menswear fashion week.
A crowd of guys with faces full of severe cystic acne are the protagonists of the fashion show supported by CNMI – the National Chamber of Italian Fashion. Small squares on dresses, knit bibs that say “Time to Eat, Y’ all!”, shirts and sweaters worn with flared trousers or short pants. Turn up the volume and voluminous shapes. The jackets have big shoulders and are adorned by vintage and oversized buttons.
Bows, earrings and laces. For him and for her. The result is a triumph of a color palette of soft tones, seemingly quirky outfits and extravagant shapes for a humorous and genderless spring summer 2017 collection.
The fashion designer Moto Guo, an alumni from Raffles College of Higher Education in Kuala Lumpur, is founder and artistic director of his eponymous label, officially launched in 2015. Eccentric in the combination of textures and in the design, his works are characterized by a layer of cynical and self-deprecating humour, with garments that are aesthetically far away from conformity in fashion.
JUN LI
Taking part with the support of CNMI - National Chamber of the Italian Fashion, the young designer Jun Li showed its spring summer 2017 collection for the first time ever in Milan.
Influenced by Anselm Kiefer’s installation work, Jun Li conquered the Milanese catwalk with an extreme sartorial minimalism, which finds expression in elegant layering effects of the garments and in a chic severity in grey, black and blue. Cultural references and clean silhouettes characterize an essential and rigorous style enriched by original details giving the body freedom of movement, such as the cuts of gilet and jackets. An interesting collection with an international attitude.
Jun Li is a Chinese-born, London-based fashion designer, after three years of womenswear training at International Fashion Academy in Shanghai, he moved to London to study menswear at London College of Fashion and launched his eponymous label. He combines innovation and tradition to create a strong stylistic identity. Taking inspiration from severe art forms including sculpture and painting, Jun Li reinterprets classic menswear tailoring in a contemporary and singular way.
DoppiaA
After the stylish debut at Pitti Immagine Uomo in January 2016 with the event titled “Generations of artists, generations of style”, the luxury brand DoppiaA (which stands for Alain and Albert, the names of the two founders) showed the spring summer 2017 collection at its Milanese showroom in Via della Spiga 1, on the occasion of the Milan Fashion Week Menswear. The label, born from a fraternal relationship between the Bresciano fashion designer Alain Fracassi and Albert Carreras, the Spanish lawyer and son of tenor José Carreras, is already distributed in important boutiques in Italy and abroad, and gets ready to expand the brand’s market through prestigious and international industry events.
A relaxed, cheerful, colourful classiness and a timeless elegance dictate the cornerstones of DoppiaA philosophy. A wardrobe faithful to the traditions, where the classic and iconic items are reinterpreted and experimented with the highest quality fabrics and excellent craftsmanship. For all generations, for all occasions and with 100% Italian manufacturing.
Refined, charmant and fascinating gentlemen. With a delicate savoir-faire and a particular attention to the details. For next hot season, they wear bush jackets in Black Watch tartan, suede smoking jackets, peacoat and cardigans. The indaco jackets recall the Japanese kendo uniforms, while the printed shirts create a pleasant contrast with monochromatic suits. Among stripes, small squares and a rich palette of colors that ranges from marron, beige, green and cream to the brightest tones.
The result is a beautiful collection combining sportswear and an unfamiliar style, playing around with elegance and sense of humour. For masculine clothes, perfect also for her.
STRATEAS CARLUCCI
The Australian designers, Peter Strateas and Mario Luca Carlucci, made their Milan debut at the recent Milan Men’s Fashion Week in June.
The concept of censorship in an ever-growing society that lives virtually in public. That’s the interpretation of Strateas Carlucci spring summer 2017 collection, taking inspiration by the Ondi Timoner documentary We live in Public, which delves into the world and genius mind of Josh Harris, whom early predicts the relationship between the virtual world and the physical world. The garments investigate the concepts of control and power, and the relationship with technology and real life. Thought decomposition and layering, striped and geometric wefts, shiny textures and oversized silhouettes, both for menswear and womenswear collections. In a combination between streetwear and high quality tailoring, using innovative materials. Extreme volumes vs cropped proportions. On outfits characterized by a strong contemporary accent.
Five years on from inception, Strateas Carlucci has received much acclaim, from the 2014 National Designer Award, presented by Tiffany & Co at the Virgin Austalian Melbourne Fashion Festival to the International Woolmark Prize in Men’s and Women’s categories, the GQ Men of the Year Award – Fashion Designer of the Year in November 2014, Prix De Marie Claire Award – for Best Emerging Australian Designer 2015, and Best Australian Emerging Designer at the Australian Laureate Awards in October 2015. In June 2015, moreover, the duo became the very first Australian Menswear designer to be invited by Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers and Créateaurs de Mode to show their collection on the official Paris Fashion Week Calendar
SUNNEI
First row at Milan Menswear Week for SUNNEI, the homegrown label entirely hand-crafted in Italy, founded by the creative minds of Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, two young designers with a degree in economics and a passion for fashion - in particular streetwear - art, design and music.
A new generation of rebellious and confident guys animated the stage at the Residenza Vignale, among an excited front row that, when the once-ubiquitous track, “The Bomb” by The Bucketheads started, it leaped up and started dancing, with smartphones in hand ready to capture every single look. Sunnei Spring Summer 2017 collection takes inspiration from ’90, where the items are reinterpreted with a modern and ironic tone. Et voilà! Bermuda and high-waisted trousers, t-shirts and hoodies with graphic motifs in a strong colors palette firmed by the visual artist Marco Di Pietro. Alternated to polo, shirts and suits. Collared cache col in silk give a touch of elegance to a youthful luxury sportswear.
Sunnei is about a unique and timeless style. For all ages and for every day, becoming bearer of a cosmopolite and international spirit. In a balance between craftsmanships and the high quality of the fabrication.
Launched just two years ago, the brand has already created five collections and is distributed in many stores worldwide, highly sought after by influencers, buyers and press.
VITTORIO BRANCHIZIO
First presentation at Milano Moda Uomo for Vittorio Branchizio, the winner of the 2015 edition of Who Is On Next? Uomo and guest star in January 2016 of Pitti Italics, Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery’s program promoting and supporting the next generation of Italian fashion designers.
The experimentation and the combination of materials are the diktat of the collection by Branchizio for next hot season. Among geometric patterns, tridimensional manufacturing on sweatshirts and bombers done using fine-gauge knits and t-shirts with abstract kaleidoscopic prints. The lineup of outerwear was shown through an installation created in collaboration with the designers Uros Mihic and Simone Fantoni, whereas regarding the painting interventions the designer has renewed the collaboration with the artist Sergio Perrero.
Vittorio Branchizio was born in Brescia, Italy in 1984. Since he was very young, Branchizio has realized his great passion for the fashion world and after a range of working experiences in a custom-tailored and in the firm D.exterior, he decided to launch his eponymous brand in 2014. Art and architecture find expression in a combination of noble materials, processing techniques and creativity, giving life to contemporary garments of the highest quality and with a New Wave allure. Each item is unique and comes from craftsmanship. Tradition, research and innovation characterize his collections.
Anna Rita Russo © Modemonline
