CPHFW NewTalent is established by Copenhagen Fashion Week to nurture, develop, and promote emerging Nordic talent on a global scale. The CPHFW NewTalent scheme also includes the format One to Watch, a recognition spotlight granted to a designer or brand with an exceptional creative vision.
For SS25, CPHFW NewTalent's One To Watch are Bonnetje, Sól Hansdóttir, and Stem, who will all hold presentations as part of the August 2024 edition.
Click on the designers' images to open their Instagram
BONNETJE
Bonnetje, a Copenhagen-based brand, specializes in cutting up old suits and reassembling the pieces into new silhouettes. By reusing defunct materials, they contribute to the search for fashion beyond the current throwaway society. Their focus extends to past, present, and future sustainable practices. Bonnetje does not aim to pioneer a brand-new style but offers its perspective on the emerging movement of circularity within fashion. Collaboration with contemporary peers and across generations is essential to their approach. Rather than discarding yesterday’s fashion, they aim to preserve it for today and reintroduce it into circulation. In refashioning existing suit items, Bonnetje literally turns certain parts inside-out, honoring the meticulous tailoring by exposing hidden details such as seams, pockets, and lining. Additionally, they incorporate feminine silhouettes into classic masculine forms, blurring the lines between inclusion and exclusion within clothing.
SÓL HANSDÓTTIR
Sól Hansdóttir is an antidisciplinary label based between London & Iceland. Consisting of a small team led creatively by Sól. The label's conscious and integral business strategy includes rigorous material sourcing, using upcycled materials/ deadstock/ end-of-life fabrics & locally sourced material for made-to-order pieces made by hand in the studio to avoid overproduction. The label works with experimental patternmaking & Icelandic folkloric & handcraft references resulting in off-kilter pieces for modern times. The Icelandic designer graduated from the MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins 2021 where she was granted the L’Oréal Creative Awards by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson & was a L'Oréal pro scholar. Before she trained with Richard Malone & Hillier Bartley. Sól has assisted with designs for brands such as Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, J&M Davidson.
STEM
Launched in September 2021 by weaver and textile designer Sarah Brunnhuber, Stem is an innovative zero-waste production brand for woven garments. Its weaving, cutting, and sewing system eliminates garment production waste and creates a visual aesthetic that tells a production story. With its experimental approach to zero-waste garments, Stem bridges craft and industry, aiming to disrupt the current cycle of overproduction and overconsumption. Stem’s philosophy is: Produce better, produce less, buy better, buy less. Stem also operates through brand collaborations, applying its production technique to pieces designed by both young and established brands, for example, Ganni x Stem.
Photo Cover: Birger Christensen Collective, patron of CPHFW NewTalent. The brand offers financial backing to participating brands through dedicated bursaries for their showcases at the SS25 edition of Copenhagen fashion week.
© Modem