Among established brands that have presented their spring-summer SS25 collections during Milan Men's Fashion Week, some interesting labels joined the calendar for the first time. Here is a selection of Modem that includes Martine Rose, David Koma, Ascend Beyond, GR10K, Diomene, and Dunhill.
Click on the designers' images to find out more.
Martine Rose
Martine Rose established her eponymous label in London in 2007. It has since evolved from a tightly edited shirting collection to an internationally renowned and critically acclaimed brand. Martine Rose is inspired by her Jamaican-British heritage and her deep interest and personal involvement in the music and high/low melting-pot cultures of London. Martine Rose's unique aesthetic is informed by an investigation of proportion and silhouette, surprising textures and fabrications, and fluent referencing of subcultural contexts. There is always a tension between attraction and resistance to the accepted codes of menswear. Her exploration of masculinity, the sexual edge of the collections, and sensitivity to character and mood define her work.
Martine Rose Sale Campaign SS 25
June 17 - 26 - Tomorrow: Via Cadore 2 - 20135 Milan
David Koma
Established in 2009 in London, David Koma has become synonymous with the ultra body-contouring silhouette, creating sculptural statement dresses inspired by the feminine form. The brand is renewed by the couture-like finishes of the garments, including the gravity-defying opulent hand embroidery or sleek and contemporary exemplary cut silhouette. Alongside the bodycon silhouette, David Koma ready-to-wear offering has expanded to include a full range of options from precise daywear separates in denim and leather, to beautifully tailored outerwear, showstopping red carpet gowns, and impeccably cut jumpsuits. The brand aesthetic is best described in 3 words: seductive, feminine, and timeless. David Koma DNA is based on sculptural and sensual pieces.
Ascend Beyond
Ascend Beyond is a men’s luxury brand founded in 2021 by Emanuele Abbondanza and Marco Grossi. The brand creates well-cared items inspired by Mediterranean imagery, to recount a thoughtful and meditative commentary on life’s circumstances. For the designers, clothing is a form of expression born from reflections on desire, aspirations, and self-consciousness, which lead to a wide-ranging, extensive narrative. They compare the label to conscious rap, a hip-hop subgenre that, just like Ascend Beyond, encourages discovering insights on an individual level that could lead to collective positive change. The brand identity is constantly focused on investigating creative, cultural, and self-awareness issues, with collections adopted as a telling means of cross-sectional outreach.
GR10K
GR10K, founded in 2019 by Anna Grassi (grandson of founder Grassi 1925's Alfredo Grassi), is a hybrid collective integrating adjacent disciplines to enact what remains a relatively traditional production process, and unearth contemporary narratives in fashion phenomenology. The brand focuses on great attention to sustainability, not only environmental but also ethical and social. The abbreviation GR10K has a particular meaning creating a strong reference to the company's history and its experience in the workwear sector. 10,000 is the code for the first piece of workwear that Grassi 1925 had in stock. The project is based on recycling deadstock fabrics lying in stock to give them a new life.
Diomene
Diomene was founded by Damir Doma and focuses on slow fashion, material quality, and craftsmanship. The Croatian-born designer studied in Munich and Berlin before working for designers Raf Simons and Dirk Schönberger. He launched his eponymous brand with a menswear line in 2007, which was followed by a womenswear line in 2010. Doma moved the brand’s operations to Milan in 2015 and, following a pause due to the pandemic launched Diomene in 2021.
Dunhill
Founded by Alfred Dunhill, dunhill is synonymous with British craftsmanship and design, and it's the foremost British men’s luxury House today. A trusted destination of elevation, classicism, hedonism, and solace, offering understated, refined pieces across ready-to-wear, leather goods, and hard luxury. Since its inception in 1893, the brand has been defined by an uncompromising dedication to excellence, craftsmanship, and style, focusing on innovation and contemporaneity. Attention to detail, excellence, functionality, and a personalised approach sets the brand apart.
Photo Cover: courtesy of Diomene
