until Sunday November 08 2026
V&A South Kensington
Cromwell Road London
SW7 2RL London
United Kingdom
Contact
hello@vam.ac.uk
https://www.vam.ac.uk
The UK’s first exhibition on Elsa Schiaparelli spans the 1920s to today, celebrating the innovative designer's influence. It traces the fashion house’s groundbreaking origins and its evolution under current creative director Daniel Roseberry.
Elsa Luisa Maria Schiaparelli is born in Rome on 10 September 1890 to Maria‑Luisa and Celestino Schiaparelli. In 1913, Schiaparelli moves to London where she meets and marries theosophist Wilhelm Wendt de Kerlor. In 1916, in the midst of the First World War, the couple relocate to New York where Schiaparelli spends time with musician and writer Gabrielle Buffet‑Picabia and artist Man Ray. Schiaparelli's daughter, Maria Luisa Yvonne Radha (Gogo), is born on 15 June 1920. Two years later, following the breakdown of her marriage, Schiaparelli moves with Gogo to Paris. In 1915/16 with encouragement from couturier Paul Poiret, Schiaparelli becomes the designer of Maison Lambal, a small Parisian fashion house. In 1927, Schiaparelli presents her first solo collections of hand‑knitted sweaters featuring geometric patterns and trompe l'oeil bow‑knots, the latter becomes a smashing success. She establishes her own company in Paris with funds provided by Charles Kahn, co‑director of the Galeries Lafayette department store. She opens a premises at 4 rue de la Paix. In 1934, Schiaparelli is the first female fashion designer to be featured on the cover of Time magazine. In 1937, Schiaparelli launches one of her most successful perfumes, Shocking, and its namesake colour, Shocking Pink. Actress Mae West delivers an unforgettable performance wearing bespoke Schiaparelli costumes in the Hollywood film, Every Day's a Holiday. In 1942, Schiaparelli organises the exhibition First Papers of Surrealism in New York with writer André Breton and artist Marcel Duchamp. In 1954, Shocking Life, Schiaparelli's autobiography, is published. In 1971 Photographer Cecil Beaton organises the groundbreaking exhibition, Fashion an Anthology, at the V&A with the largest display of Schiaparelli's work to date, including garments donated by her. In 1973, Schiaparelli dies at home in Paris, aged 83.
In 2006, the acquisition of the archives and rights to the Schiaparelli name paves the way for the House's revival. In 2012, the Schiaparelli salon reopens at 21 Place Vendôme in Paris. In 2017, Maison Schiaparelli is officially granted Haute Couture status by France's Ministry of Industry and its Haute Couture and Fashion Federation. In 2019, Daniel Roseberry is appointed Creative Director of Maison Schiaparelli. In 2024, Daniel Roseberry is honoured with the International Designer of the Year Award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. In 2027, Maison Schiaparelli will celebrate its centenary.
Photo Schiaparelli Haute Couture autumn/winter 2024 © Giovanni Giannoni. Photo courtesy Patrimoine Schiaparelli, Paris
