Paris Fashion Week has always represented the crème-de-la-crème of the international fashion scene, by showcasing the work of established high-end designers and fashion houses, strictly selected by The Fédération Française de la Couture as members of the French Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter. Things have been evolving for a while, as more and more emerging designers choose to present their collections in Paris, turning the once conservative French Capital into a truly international platform for emerging talents. What’s interesting is that young designers prefer to showcase in collective showrooms, often supported by national institutions or creative agencies. In this context, they are mature enough to promote themselves as part of a new country-related fashion initiative, whilst promoting their own brand identity. MODEM presents a round up of the most exciting international designers collective that emerged during the Fall/Winter 2015-16 ready-to-wear season in Paris.
AFA Showroom – Austria
The AFA Showroom made its Parisian debut by presenting a selection of emerging fashion designers from Austria. Developed by the AFA – Austrian Fashion Association, with the support of The Advantage Austria and the Arts Division and the Culture Division of the Federal Chancellery of Austria (BKA), the initiative aims to promote Austrian creatives abroad. For its first edition, the AFA Showroom featured Ajla Ayidan’s clothing; Bradaric Ohmae’s playfully crafted pieces; the bold prints and contemporary shapes of DMMJK's silhouettes; Femme Maison’s raw elegance and distinctive minimalism; the sculptural sophistication of Polaire’s accessories; the chic edginess of Rani Bageria’s knitwear; Sonja Bischur Jewellery; the progressive clothing of Ute Ploier; WienerBlut’s fragrances and Wubet’s hand-loomed stoles. All the creators shared strong aesthetics, as well as solid craftsmanship skills.
Berlin Showroom – Germany
Twice a year, Berlin Showroom aims to promote the most cutting-edge Berlin-based designers respectively for men’s and women’s fashion outside Germany.Berlin Showroom was initiated by Projekt Zukunft, Berlin’s Senate Department for Economics, Technology and Research. It is largely financed by the program Opening up New Markets and the EFRE fund. For the 5th women’s edition, Berlin Showroom featured the Fall/Winter 2015-16 collections of 12 Berlin-based designers: Âme Sœur, the brand of sisters Sabina and Madina Taschen, CRUBA by Mira von der Osten, DSTM, the brand of Canadian-born designer Jen Gilpin, the pluri-awarded Hien Le, Isabell de Hillerin, the raising talent Marina Hoermanseder, Perret Schaad by Johanna Perret and Tutia Schaad, the knitwear label Pugnat, Schmidttakahashi, the experimental Starstyling, Steinrohner by Caroline Rohner, Inna Stein, and Vonschwanenflügelpupke.
China New Wave – China
Organized by the Shanghai-based agency DIA : Creative Communications, China New Wave was a 3-days long showroom presentation dedicated to up-and-coming Chinese designers. The showcase featured 7 fashion brands in total, which were carefully scouted during the past editions of Shanghai Fashion Week. Boundless, Xiao Li, Haizhen Wang, Angel Chen, Yirantian, Museum of Friendship and Renli Su presented their Fall/ Winter 2015-16 collections to international and Chinese press and buyers, as well as further industry influencers, such as models and bloggers. The showroom also hosted a special cocktail event on March 4th, together with the participating designers and the Irish author Gemma A Williams, for the launch of her book Fashion China.
Fashion Scout Showroom – UK
Fashion Scout is a London-based independent organization, which selects and showcases both new and more established designers during London and Paris Fashion weeks, as well as during Kiev Fashion Days. Throughout the years, Fashion Scout Showroom became a prominent fixture among the Parisian showrooms. For the Fall/ Winter 2015-16 season, the British organization brought 22 new designers to the French capital, including Carla Pontes, Cats Brothers, Daniela Barros, Dioralop, Gbemi, Gyo Yuni Kimchoe, Injury, J Moon, James Kelly, Joao Melo Costa, Keiko Nishiyama, Lucilla Gray, Min Wu, Minju Kim, Napsugar, Petra Ptackova, Quoi Alexander, Simon Ekrelius, Typical Freaks, Xiao Li, Youjia Jin, and ZDDZ. Fashion Scout Showroom also organized a cocktail reception on March 7th, in order to celebrate this edition's participants.
LONDON show ROOMS – UK
LONDON show ROOMS is an initiative by the British Fashion Council that provides a unique opportunity for emerging British designers to promote themselves outside London. Since 2008, the BFC organization, supported by Sarah Mower, BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent, has been taking emerging talents to Paris during Paris Fashion Week, in order to provide them with an appropriate environment. In addition to Paris, LONDON show ROOMS now moves to different markets such as New York and Hong-Kong, with carefully curated groups of designers ranging from new talents, to London’s new establishment, and guest designer brands. This season’s showcase featured more than 30 brands including Ashley Williams, Claire Barrow, Danielle Romeril, Faustine Steinmetz, Helen Lawrence, Holly Fulton, Louise Alsop, Marques'Almeida, {Marta Jakubowski, Michael van der Ham, palmer//harding, Piers Atkinson Millinery, Ryan Lo, Sibling, Caitlin Price, Ed Marler, Mary Benson, Molly Goddard, and Sadie Williams.
More Dash Showroom – Ukraine
The Ukrainian fashion wave hits Paris for the second time. Organized and promoted by the More Dash agency, the new venture of Daria Shapovalova, Founder and Creative Director of Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days, and Natalia Modenova, MBKFD’s CEO, the More Dash Showroom is conceived as a business platform for emerging talents from Ukraine. For its second edition, the initiative promoted the Fall/ Winter 2015-16 collections of young designers from Ukraine, Georgia, Russia and Kazakhstan, such as Anna K, Alisa Kuzembaeva, Anton Belinskiy, Anouki, Anna October, Bekh, De Guise, Ksenia Schnaider, Lalo Cardignas, N-Duo, Palson Kifot and Yulia Yefimtchuk. More Dash Showroom’s designers were also promoted by Fashion Scout in London, during last London Fashion Week.
Polish Fashion Now – Poland
Showcased by the Polish Institute in Paris and conceived as an innovative and multidisciplinary event, Polish Fashion Now offered to Poland’s most inspiring designers, illustrators and photographers the unique opportunity to present their work in Paris. The 16 participants presented by Polish Fashion Now included the illustrators Ada Buchholc, {Elzbieta Gadek, Katarzyna Smoczynska and Paweł Zawiślak, the fashion designers PITCHOUGUINA, Sylwia Rochala, Sophie Kula, k a a s k a s, Joanna Startek and Jacob Birge Vision, as well as the accessories designers Dominika Nowak, Filip Nocko, DECOLOVE Atelier, Katarzyna Ostapowicz and Katarzyna Gemborys, and the photographer Magdalena Ławniczak. Willing to explore new directions and to take creative risks, this selected group of designers, illustrators and photographers succeeded in giving Poland's creative scene an upbeat and seductive image by blending style with substance.
TokyoEye – Japan
TokyoEye is a creative project launched by the Japanese Ministry of International Trade and Industry to support and promote Japanese fashion internationally. Since 2010, TokyoEye aims to create a real link between Tokyo and Paris, and has collaborated with renowned Parisian fashion institutions ever since, such as the concept store colette and the Tranoï trade-show. For the Fall/Winter 2015-16 edition, TokyoEye showcased its participating designers at the ZipZone fashion trade fair, located in Musée des Arts Décoratifs. 10 brands in total, including DENIM WORKS/BETTY SMITH, e.m.a., FUGAHUM, GrassNote, Hh, KARAFURU, marumasu, motonari ono, SHIGA and SOMARTA, achieved to once again celebrate Japan's eclectic taste, and to bring some exciting vibes from Tokyo to the French capital.
Romanian Designers in Paris – Romania
Sponsored by the Romanian Ministry of Economy & ARCF, 15 Romanian designers had the possibility to present their work during the latest edition of Paris Fashion Week for the very first time. This rather unique initiative allowed to shed light on some of the most interesting Romanian fashion labels. The Romanian Designers that participated to the Parisian fashion event succeeded in showcasing a fresh take on fashion design, by providing new style suggestions. Spread among the most important Paris-based trade-shows, from Tranoï to Vêndome Luxury and Me My Mode, Romanian creators MIAU by Clara Rotescu, Rhea Costa, Lorina, Ludmila Corlatenanu, Gabriela Dumitran, Otilia Flonta, Cristian Samfira, Malvensky, Elena Perseil, Corina Vladescu, Venera Arapu, Murmur, Marieollie, and Alexandru Raicu gave to international buyers, press and style insiders a remarkable insight into Romanian fashion.
Picture courtesy of Maxime Ballesteros for DSTM.
