First Steps: Paris Men's Fashion Week FW20/21
by Modem – Posted January 14 2020
© Modem

Paris Fashion Week (January 14th - 19th) hosts first step designers: Ziggy Chen, Oteyza, Botter, Taakk, Doublet, BED J.W. FORD, Noma t.d. , Nulabel and Gunther.

[red]Ziggy Chen[/red]

Ziggy Chen started his own label in 2012. His style emanates an elegance mixing ancient and modern, oriental and western influences. Based in Shanghai, Ziggy Chen also draws its inspiration from the 1920s and from the city he lives in. He carefully depicts the collision of extreme cultures in his creations. His cuts are fluid but structured, leaving plenty of room for ample body movements. The young designer imports in Shanghai the best fibres, before mixing them, decorating them with wool, raw cotton or linen and weaving them on the spot. Since the beginning Ziggy Chen and his team are tirelessly researching new solutions in terms of patterns, details, volumes and new materials, developing fabrics or digging vintage archives. This approach revisits the rule of industrialization to redefine the landscape of what is commonly accepted as old or new. Ziggy Chen in its collections seeks to blend aspects of rawness and durability with elements of softness and elegance.


Oteyza is a Spanish men's fashion house born in 2011 with a creation and design workshop for 8 years in Madrid . Since then it imposed its strong Spanish identity on the international market. OTEYZA draws from the frankness and balance of its lines, the strength and gravity of its textures and colours, allowing a renewal in the vision of men's fashion. The brand works on space and form, whose converging lines create new codes of elegance. It offers a fresh and authentic vision of tailoring in which material, imagination, craftsmanship, and elegance unite to offer the ultimate expression of a bespoke garment. This Spanish brand will present its creations for the first time at the Men's Fashion Week in Paris.


Botter was created by Rushemy Botter, a dutch designer. He launches his brand Botter, in partnership with Lisi Herrebrugh, thanks to the collection he developed during his master's degree. Botter is a menswear label who designes garments in an elegant way. They find themselves looking back at their Caribbean roots. Between Caribbean virility and femininity lays a very thin layer, men are idle. The use of rare details makes the collections have a poetic feel and a great elegance. The collections represent a look into a personal diary, a look and opinion on the world are being expressed through their work. They believe this is important to the relevance of a collection.


Taakk was established by Takuya Morikawa in 2012. Takuya imbues modern suiting with a relaxed aesthetic, playing with silhouettes, pursued proportions, and cutting edge fabrics. Brand concepts is "UNREALISTIC REALITY" , which designs are created by an exceptional technique. His collections are very new style and challenged traditional notions of reality. Takuya Morikawa has a way with textiles. He focuses on materials, treatments, and color, all of which are created through one-on-one interactions with the technicians. Many of the fabrics he uses cannot be found anywhere else in the world. He creates 25 to 30 pieces each season and never intends to expand to more pieces. The reason being, each work has to be unique and special. Morikawa challenges traditional notions of normality and strives to deliver a piece worthy of being part of TAAKK.


Doublet is a Japanese streetwear brand created by Masayuki Ino in 2012 with the pattern maker Takashi Murakami. Masayuki Ino graduated from Tokyo Mode Academy school and had experience of working as a designer. He is mixing and adding any kinds of category such as basic and standard to create totally new style.
He's very experimental in pushing boundaries and his creations are a mixture of innovation and subversion. A hodgepodge of disparate references to subcultures, from 80s punk to typically American college sports, is formed through the brand's selection of deconstructed and reassembled men's coordinates. It imposes extravagant creations inspired by popular culture. Doublet takes basic items — think tees, hoodies, and sneakers — adding creative details to elevate the brand beyond basic streetwear. The main concept of the collection is "Daily wear with strangeness".

[red]BED J.W. FORD[/red]

BED J.W. FORD was created by designer Shine Yamagishi. He entered the fashion industry, unconventionally self-taught without formal study; establishing BED j.w. FORD in 2010 and launching its first collection for 2011 Spring / Summer. BED j.w. FORD bases itself on the concept of “dressing up” whilst exploring innovative design and coordinated layers. Each collections draws inspiration from the beauty and fragileness of the intimacies within our daily lives; reflecting the designer’s personal interactions with the transience of space, sounds and objects. Yamagishi places particular importance on how his garments’ fabrics and colors appear on people as they walk the street.With a personal preference towards a style not easily categorized, his designs are a carefully considered balance between formal and casual; masculine and feminine; delicate and rough; each style is infused with Yamagishi’s own sensitivity and personality.

[red]Noma t.d. [/red]

Noma t.d. was founded by Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki in 2005. They produce their own textiles by handcrafting unique graphics used in the creation of their garments. Noguchi graduated from Musashino Art University in Tokyo before studying textile design. Sasaki ran his own boutique in Tokyo and has travelled extensively in search of talented young designers. NOMA t.d. was launched to combine the pair's talents, experience, and knowledge of design. They produce a range of their own textiles by utilising handcrafted graphics and their collection has steadily grown in size and popularity. The label's signatures include exceptional attention to detail and a free, interpretive style.


Nulabel will make its debut in January 2020 in Paris. It's the new name of the brand formerly known as PORTVEL. In September 2014, PORTVEL was founded by Hiroaki Hamada, a Japanese designer, as a men's clothing brand and started its collection in SS-2015. There is no difference between PORTVEL and NULABEL in essence. In PORTVEL the designer seeks to portray novel fashion in clothing category by modernizing archives of design, whereas collaborative team seeks to present new value through design in many fields in NULABEL. PORTVEL makes a circular chain of design, which are presented by the slogan "Heritage and Sewage". NULABEL will portray other circular chain of value in addition.


Gunther was founded in 2018 by Naomi Gunther, who grew up in Paris before studying fashion at the Parsons school in New York. Like other young women, Naomi Gunther decided to devote herself to men's fashion. Her contemporary silhouettes revisit the classics of men's wardrobe with a contemporary and urban sensibility, mixing large handmade knits with pieces from the streetwear culture, revisited in luxurious fabrics. Naomi Gunther exploits oversized forms, such as the trouser shape that has unleashed passions on social networks. Gunther is the meeting of an old know-how and a modern aesthetic, an authentic parisian landscape and a creative frenzy imported directly from New York. Designed in Paris & handcrafted in small ateliers, the design process tries to be as eco-responsible as possible.


Lucie Chiquer © Modemonline