Boutet Solanes SS23 collection. Courtesy image

Boutet Solanes - View the video presentation
Coco Boutet launched her eponymous brand Boutet Solanes in 2020 in Paris, in collaboration with her conjoint José Maria Solanes. Coco, a designer trained at Celine, Louis Vuitton, and Dior, is obsessed with minerals. Jose Maria, a photographer known for his confident portrayal of a woman is fascinated with the yet-to-be-discovered. Together they sculpt a woman that is a determined explorer in search of the next dazzling stone. "We explore, the whole brand is about to explore," said the founders. "So we are going to new places and looking at things as if it was the first time, and that's something that is very much in the core of the brand. There is some kind of elements from childhood that are very present in the Boutet Solanes women." For the SS23 collection, the brand imagines a woman who is very close to minerals and stones. She is minimal, and simple, but also quite shiny and very seductive. She's exploring the world externally but also internally. Clothing that is practical in a way but elegant to remind the aspect of the stones. From the bottoms on some garments that look like stones.


Pressiat SS23 collection. Courtesy image

Pressiat - View the video presentation
Vincent Garnier Pressiat is a young designer who recently graduated from the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He worked at John Galliano, Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent, and Balmain, before launching Pressiat. The brand adapts the traditional codes of different eras to bring them to refreshing and roaring modernity. The pieces are worn like a second skin like armor, mixing craftsmanship, architecture, and art with the universe of the night. For his first presentation on the official schedule of Paris Fashion Week, the designer presents a collection, aggressive, extravagant, and decadent, inspired by the meeting between Marilyn Monroe and Iggy Pop in the 1950s: high heels, necklace chain, asymmetrical cuts, sculptural dresses, patent leather pants, and slashed T-shirts.


Florentina Leitner SS23 collection @chiarasteemans_photography

Florentina Leitner - View the video presentation
Born in Austria, Florentina Leitner rose to success after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp in 2020, after which she designed for Dries Van Noten before launching her brand in the same year. Loved by celebrities and fashion icons worldwide, Florentina Leitner is a forward-thinking fashion brand with a strong consciousness of sustainability. The collection features Florentina's typical flower motifs in prints but also in 3D executed. Leitner's new collection is a mix of elegance and femininity inspired by Deers, Daisies, and Daydreaming and with a focus on glitter textiles and flowers. She collaborated with Dutch graphic artist Rop van Mierlo for the deer print on the mini dresses.


Paula Canovas SS23 collection. Courtesy image

Paula Canovas del Vas
Paula Canovas del Vas is the Spanish-born, London-based designer behind the eponymous label established in 2018, after graduating from the Central Saint Martins BA and MA in Fashion, completed with the support of the Stella McCartney Scholarship. Her debut AW18 Central Saint Martins runway show immediately garnered attention, with the introduction of the devil-toed ‘Diablo Shoes’ and accessories. Paula’s youthful designs are built around a rich array of references and craft techniques, research, and experiments with shapes, textures, and fabrics; as well as cross-disciplinary collaborations with artists. All collections are made using primarily deadstock and recycled materials. Paula was a semi-finalist in the Lvmh Prize 2022. Before launching the label, Paula was a creative consultant for Kanye West, following positions at Maison Margiela under John Galliano and Gucci. The SS23 collection is animistic, sculptural, eloquent, and rich in textures, colors, and shapes. Canovas del Vas reinterprets deadstock fabric, the essential medium for which the designer has become known, to create shape-shifting silhouettes that cling to, encase and embrace the protagonist. Colors look to the natural world, knits reminiscent of sea urchin flesh, fuchsia blooming up jeans, up to the luminously hued antennae of a sea anemone, diffused over a denim jacket.


Anna October SS23 collection. Courtesy image

Anna October - View the video presentation
Anna October is the Ukrainian womenswear designer behind her namesake label, known for its feminine, graceful and playful aesthetics. Anna October founded her brand in 2010, and was shortlisted for Lvmh Prize, the fashion's most prestigious prize for young designers, in 2014. In 2017 October became a part of the Mercedes Benz "Generation Now, Generation Next", the project aimed to highlight international talents in the sphere of fashion design. Anna October developed a sustainable ethos within the brand. Collections are created using deadstock textiles. The brand maintains expert tailoring to pursue the aim in creating perfectly fitted clothes, destined to remain in the wardrobe for years. A significant amount of the pieces are handcrafted by using re-imagined artisanal techniques for modern clothes. Anna October is stocked at retailers including Matches, Net-a-Porter and Ssense.


Ruohan SS23 collection. Courtesy image

Ruohan - View the video presentation
Ruohan is a luxury womenswear brand established by Ruohan Nie in March 2021. Focusing on exceptional fabrics, impeccable details, and precise tailoring, the brand would like to deliver a timeless wardrobe with effortless spirit. Inspired by travel, art, and all forms of design, the brand embodies the style of modern minimalism and usually centers around a neutral color palette. The label received the 2021 Lane Crawford x Labelhood Scholarship and Commercial Performance Award on the occasion of Shanghai Fashion Week SS22. In addition to selected retailers in China, the brand also collaborates with showrooms and stores in Europe, the US, and Japan. The SS 23 collection takes inspiration from the concept of candles and light. The wax- treated fabrics are the main fabrics. In addition, the collection also simulates some special techniques inspired by the Renaissance fresco production for fabric development and manipulation where the prints are inspired by the movement of fire. The designer worked with a natural narrow palette that went from white to black, from cold to warm, just like the effect of a candle; from dark to bright. The pieces are elegant and chic, while the finesse of the cuts was precise but relaxed and combined an experimental approach to form.


All videos presentations of Paris Fashion Week SS23 on Modemonline.com

Photo cover: from the Florentina Leitner SS23 backstage